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King Stannis

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the 2017 one is not, the 2018 still has its basic warranty.
Shit, that is a quandary, however with the savings with the 2017 you can purchase a warranty.

I highly recommend getting the AWD model.

An SUV without AWD is like a BMW M6 with only automatic transmission.
 

KI4MVP

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Moving this discussion to the car thread
Not to go off-topic, but can you site sources for that?! I recently bought a gently used BMW but I'd totally look at a Tesla if that were the case! Just seems like the entry price was way too high for me and the used market was slim pickings. Also, how bad is insurance?
'

24 kWh per 100 miles for Standard Range+ Model 3. Electricity is about 11 cents/kWh where I live, so $2.64 for 100 miles, 2.6cents/mile. Supercharging costs more.

price is at tesla.com - $39,900.

No point in buying a used Tesla, they are hard to find and selling for more than new ones because global demand is greater than supply. They ended the quarter basically delivering them in California straight off the factory with a 4 hour line.


Insurance in Florida was just a hair more than the Mercedes I traded in.
 

Hurl Bruce

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A couple weekends ago, my wipers froze on me. Just stopped working. Guy at the shop fixed something or other and I was on my way. Today, I get a letter from Chevy that there may be an issue with my car's wiper transmission, and I can get it fixed or reimbursed if I have already fixed it. How the hell did they time this that way? Was it, "This is bound to happen 6 years after purchase?"
 

inliner311

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A couple weekends ago, my wipers froze on me. Just stopped working. Guy at the shop fixed something or other and I was on my way. Today, I get a letter from Chevy that there may be an issue with my car's wiper transmission, and I can get it fixed or reimbursed if I have already fixed it. How the hell did they time this that way? Was it, "This is bound to happen 6 years after purchase?"
Unless he changed it with the new part that is for the recall I doubt it. Usually there is a nut that is designed to loosen to protect the motor so you don't damage the motor and mechanical parts. All you have to do it reposition the motor and arms to the resting position and tighten it back up. Did your mechanic say what he changed out or did he just say he fixed it?

It's probably still worth getting it fixed for free for the recall. Some of those parts wear down especially when you tend to try to use them when they are frozen to the windshield.
 
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Man Called X

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A couple weekends ago, my wipers froze on me. Just stopped working. Guy at the shop fixed something or other and I was on my way. Today, I get a letter from Chevy that there may be an issue with my car's wiper transmission, and I can get it fixed or reimbursed if I have already fixed it. How the hell did they time this that way? Was it, "This is bound to happen 6 years after purchase?"
Chances are, the plastic bushings in the transmission are junk like all chevy wiper transmissions. I'd tell you to go ahead and get the recall done. My suggestion is DO NOT LET THEM tell you anything else is wrong and needs fixed. Make it quite clear the only issue you want serviced is the wiper transmission.

Just be thankful that Chevy quit using the junk pulse board module on the wiper motors.
 

Phills14

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I'm sure this has been asked but I can't go through 23 pages to find it...

Looking to buy a car. Sticker is $37K. "Internet Price" is $31.5k. Where do I go with the negotiation? What does the "Internet Price" even mean? I don't need the car. I want it but don't need it. I can afford the car. Is the price pretty firm typically or are there other things I can negotiate in from this point like accessories, oil changes, etc...

Anyone have good tips here?
 

KI4MVP

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I'm sure this has been asked but I can't go through 23 pages to find it...

Looking to buy a car. Sticker is $37K. "Internet Price" is $31.5k. Where do I go with the negotiation? What does the "Internet Price" even mean? I don't need the car. I want it but don't need it. I can afford the car. Is the price pretty firm typically or are there other things I can negotiate in from this point like accessories, oil changes, etc...

Anyone have good tips here?
Buy an EV an eliminate oil changes and other maintenance and cut your fuel costs to 3 cents/mile.
 

GOMD

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I'm sure this has been asked but I can't go through 23 pages to find it...

Looking to buy a car. Sticker is $37K. "Internet Price" is $31.5k. Where do I go with the negotiation? What does the "Internet Price" even mean? I don't need the car. I want it but don't need it. I can afford the car. Is the price pretty firm typically or are there other things I can negotiate in from this point like accessories, oil changes, etc...

Anyone have good tips here?
What kind of car? New/used? Got a link? Sometimes an "internet price" on a new car included a bunch of rebates and discounts that you won't actually qualify for when you get into the dealership. Need more info though.
 

Phills14

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It’s a new car, Jeep Wrangler Sport. Very popular but I’m looking for a manual transmission. The dealership keeps a lot of wranglers on the lot but very few manuals.
 

GOMD

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My sister has a 2018 Wrangler JL 4 door, bought brand new. Terrible car. A ton of issues since she bought it. Mutliple recalls, tons of steering play, radio and dashboard always having electrical issues, rear defroster tabs broke off back window. Just a warning of what you may be getting into. Other than that, you are right, Wranglers are popualr and usually sell well, especially if you want a hard to find manual transmission. At the end of the day, you need to at minimum call/email and get a price, and then probably go into the dealership.

In the meantime, check out https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/ , for prices paid ect..
 

Lee

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I'm sure this has been asked but I can't go through 23 pages to find it...

Looking to buy a car. Sticker is $37K. "Internet Price" is $31.5k. Where do I go with the negotiation? What does the "Internet Price" even mean? I don't need the car. I want it but don't need it. I can afford the car. Is the price pretty firm typically or are there other things I can negotiate in from this point like accessories, oil changes, etc...

Anyone have good tips here?
SO everyone is giving you car advice against the what you are asking, I do agree stay away from a jeep but that is not what you are asking.

Basically most dealerships don't negotiate the internet prices, but some do. Play hardball. Stick to lets say 30k, go in right now, ask for 30k heck 29k, who cares. If they are going to make a deal it will be at the end of the month when they are trying to work quotas. Have them run your credit, get the deal all tabled, say no, walk away, give them your number, negotiate for a couple of weeks.

Basically if you wan the absolute best price, be willing to walk away, be willing to wait. That said...don't buy a Jeep, they have constant issues, but if you are in love, don't say you haven't been warned, lol.
 

King Stannis

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I am looking at a new (not new, but new to me) car in 6-8 months.

Not a SUV as I have no need for one here.

2-4 doors, luxury sedan. I want power and grace. Don't want to spend more than $25K give or take a couple grand.

So far I am leaning toward the 2016-2018 Jaguar XF-S, or the 2015 XFR and its 510 HP engine, but I dislike its outdated electronics. The XF is both powerful, nimble and not everyone has one here. I had an Evoque so I am very familiar with Jaguar/Land Rover family.

I am also considering the Jaguar XE-S (smaller mid-sized), the 2015-217 BMW 550i, 2015-2017 BMW 650i.

Any other options I am overlooking? We already have an Audi, and they did facelifts past 2018, so no dice there. Not big into Mercedes.

I did look into the Teslas, KI, but too much for either the S and 3.

Any others?
 

Man Called X

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I am looking at a new (not new, but new to me) car in 6-8 months.

Not a SUV as I have no need for one here.

2-4 doors, luxury sedan. I want power and grace. Don't want to spend more than $25K give or take a couple grand.

So far I am leaning toward the 2016-2018 Jaguar XF-S, or the 2015 XFR and its 510 HP engine, but I dislike its outdated electronics. The XF is both powerful, nimble and not everyone has one here. I had an Evoque so I am very familiar with Jaguar/Land Rover family.

I am also considering the Jaguar XE-S (smaller mid-sized), the 2015-217 BMW 550i, 2015-2017 BMW 650i.

Any other options I am overlooking? We already have an Audi, and they did facelifts past 2018, so no dice there. Not big into Mercedes.

I did look into the Teslas, KI, but too much for either the S and 3.

Any others?
On the lower end luxury, I've never heard a complaint about Acura's. You'll never hear me suggesting a Jaguar or a BMW, and while an aspect of that is I'm too poor to think about owning one, the other aspect is difficulty in getting repairs. Perhaps that aspect is negated being in California as opposed to Ohio.
 

GOMD

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I am looking at a new (not new, but new to me) car in 6-8 months.

Not a SUV as I have no need for one here.

2-4 doors, luxury sedan. I want power and grace. Don't want to spend more than $25K give or take a couple grand.

So far I am leaning toward the 2016-2018 Jaguar XF-S, or the 2015 XFR and its 510 HP engine, but I dislike its outdated electronics. The XF is both powerful, nimble and not everyone has one here. I had an Evoque so I am very familiar with Jaguar/Land Rover family.

I am also considering the Jaguar XE-S (smaller mid-sized), the 2015-217 BMW 550i, 2015-2017 BMW 650i.

Any other options I am overlooking? We already have an Audi, and they did facelifts past 2018, so no dice there. Not big into Mercedes.

I did look into the Teslas, KI, but too much for either the S and 3.

Any others?
Hyundai Genesis G80 5.0? 420 hp v8. Other than that, I think you have most of your choices in front of you.
 

Arketebel

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I'm sure this has been asked but I can't go through 23 pages to find it...

Looking to buy a car. Sticker is $37K. "Internet Price" is $31.5k. Where do I go with the negotiation? What does the "Internet Price" even mean? I don't need the car. I want it but don't need it. I can afford the car. Is the price pretty firm typically or are there other things I can negotiate in from this point like accessories, oil changes, etc...

Anyone have good tips here?
I get a few internet quotes from places a few hours away. Then I take the best one, knock of a few hundred and ask a dealer a little closer if they can meet the price. By the time I get to the closest dealership, I usually know the lowest anyone will go. If my local dealer won't match, but is still within the ballpark of the best price, I will buy there. It makes it easier for warranty/recall service, and they often provide a loaner for the day or more when necessary.
 

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